The Rope And Anchor has enjoyed mixed fortunes over the last five or so years. One minute it was a thriving destination pub/restaurant for which diners had to book, the next it disappeared off the good country pub radar because subsequent managements never seemed to get things quite right.
So Dunham Massey residents were delighted when the Deckers company, which has seven North West venues, decided to nurse it back to health with a multi-million pound refurbishment and gastro pub makeover. In fact, somebody was so impressed with the exotic exterior landscaping that they pinched half the plants in the dead of night a week before opening.
Nursing it back to health is actually an understatement. For this handsome Victorian red brick building has been transformed beyond recognition, thanks to Stockport interior designer Sam Moss, who says it’s been wonderful working with “such a generous design budget.”
And it shows. Limed oak tables to match the flooring, brocade and leather upholstery in cool taupe and steel grey, Ralph Lauren fabrics for soft furnishings. It’s a sumptuous blend of traditional and modern with a nautical rope theme paying homage to its name. Yes, Sam has certainly done this historic pub proud.
Outside is a stunning alfresco dining area with a walkway and electronic canopy which can be opened and closed depending on the weather to allow folk to dine outside at any time of year. Upstairs there’s another bar, dining and relaxation area with views of the lush Dunham Massey countryside and even a flat screen telly, providing more comfort and luxury than normally lavished on soccer fans.
Indeed, even Mr Levell, at the next table, eyed it enviously and I bet he’s had some posh fishcakes in his time.
But let’s get down to the nitty gritty – the grub. I was dining with two ladies who don’t usually lunch so splendidly, so it was a bit of a girly treat. Mother chose a Mediterranean Prawn and Avocado Cocktail with Baby Gem Hearts, Brown Bread and Devilled Butter (that’s with mace, nutmeg, lemon and cayenne pepper and simply delicious on the warm, home-made nutty bread) (£7.25). Sister had Crispy Goat’s Cheese with Pickled Beetroot, Walnut and Watercress Salad (£5.95), a sublime blend of flavours to whet the palate and I had Smoked
Haddock, Salmon and Scallion Fishcake with Tomato and Shallot Salad (£6.95). Mine had enormous chunks of fish, so big I kept showing them to my fellow diners. In fact, there was more fish than cake. We were all very impressed by my whale rissole. Indeed, even Mr Levell, at the next table, eyed it enviously and I bet he’s had some posh fishcakes in his time.
For mains the matriarch chose the Roast Rump Of lamb with a Lemon and Herb Crust, Provencal Veg and Dauphinoise Potatoes (£15.95). We didn’t hear a word from her until the last mouthful which is always a good sign. I couldn’t resist dunking a chunky chip in her jus which didn’t half annoy her because we were sitting next to a Corrie actor and she likes to think she brought me up to have better manners than that.
Sis opted for the Beer Battered Jumbo Scampi – jumbo being the operative word as they were positively elephantesque – Chunky Chips (home-made, I hasten to add), green peas and tartare sauce (£12.95) and I guiltily devoured the Spatchcock Baby Chicken (it was only ickle) which was cooked to moist perfection with lemon and thyme, with a cute separate Caesar Salad and Chunky Chips (£15.95).
Now we ladies rarely do puds, but the occasion and the selection demanded it. Mama went for Treacle Tart with Dunham Massey Farm Ice Cream, naturally; sister the Creme Brulee with Buttery Home-Made Shortbread and I the Strawberry Shortcake, a designer tower of fresh strawberries home-made round biscuits and fluffy strawberry cream (all £5.75). We were in gastro heaven. Coffee and home-made cookies followed…as if we needed them.
I predict resounding success for the new-look Rope and Anchor, especially with its spacious outdoor dining area. Booking will become the norm. It’s not the cheapest, but it’s quality and there’s a hearty kids’ menu too. So next time you’re after blowing away the cobwebs in the country, make Paddock Lane, Dunham Massey your destination of choice. Disappointed you won’t be.
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